Valletta, Malta

Thursday 29th November

I somehow managed to sleep through the Captain’s announcement that we had berthed in Valletta and woke at 9.30! I was feeling quite tired (about the level that I used to call normal!!!) but fortunately managed to gain energy during the day. At breakfast another solo traveller sat beside me and kindly offered to show me Valletta. I knew there was no way I would have the energy to cope with a stranger, especially one who would be hard work (walking at a different pace from me, talking softly so I had to concentrate, etc.) so I politely refused. Very difficult. (He was obviously not too dismayed, as he sat with Peggy, Chris and me at afternoon tea later – though did make a couple of comments about me having refused.)

I was off the ship by 11.00. From the docks it’s a 20-minute walk to the centre, or a public bus ride (I would have had to wait 25 minutes for the next one) or a taxi ride. I chose to walk. It allowed me to admire the scenery.

Valletta is built from a beautiful golden limestone. It positively glows in the sun. I would class it as the most stunning city I have seen. I believe the quarry is running out of stone, and new buildings are only faced with it. There is a ban on export of the limestone. The only problem is that it is very porous, so the rock is crumbling badly. There is a lot of renovation work going on. At one stage a lot of the buildings were rendered over, and often painted. (I saw one patch of bright green, next to a patch of render, next to crumbling limestone.) I don’t know if this render protected the stone or added to the decay when it was removed this century. When I sat in an internet centre I found dust galore on the benches, and had to wipe a space clear for the mouse. It was the limestone, crumbling down from the bare ceilings onto the computers and keyboards and desks.

Valletta is also built on a hill so there are a lot of steps to climb. The roads are wider than in Korcula but I was reminded of all those steps. It seemed that there were roads for cars across the slope, but stepped roads up the slope. There were only a few roads going up/down for cars to change directions. It must take a while to learn to navigate.

My first port of call was to St Paul’s Shipwreck church. I was fascinated by a varnished wooden board with the sign saying ‘St Paul’s Shipwreck. Worth seeing ...’ and directions to it. Such blatant advertising on such a professional board. Actually, I found the church too dark for my taste.

The next visit was to St John’s Co-Cathedral. This was the church of the Knights of St John. It glittered on every wall. It was truly impressive. The floor was of marble in many colours, a succession of tombstones, now mainly covered in carpet to protect them.

Inside the museum of the cathedral were two huge paintings by Caravaggio (St Jerome, and beheading of John the Baptist), who used to be one of the knights but was defrocked in the very chapel that now shows off his paintings with pride.

I wandered the streets, allowing myself to just get lost, fascinated by the vistas through alleyways. These were made more intriguing by the fact that you were generally looking down or up. Oh, for greater skills as a photographer!

I chose not to stop for coffee because, although the sun was shining for the first day on the voyage, it did not reach between the buildings. I thought it might be too cold to just sit.

After time in an internet cafe I wandered to the Upper Barracka Gardens, just above the Battery. It was quite a climb.

From there I had a view of the harbour in all directions. There is a lot of Valletta that we did not get to see. Our ship was in another section to the right of this part of the harbour. Imagine glowing golden buildings situated around nearly 300 degrees of a harbour. (Surely in ancient times the golden stone of Malta must have given rise to legends of houses built of gold!)

I was back on the ship by 3, almost first in line for the 3.30 afternoon tea!

After dinner Chris and I practised dancing to the recorded music while Peggy (Chris’s mother) and Trevor saved our seats for the all-singing all-dancing show. (A new entertainment crew came on board for our show and had been practising and preparing up till now.) After that, of course, we danced the night away! I have told the hosts that I want them to help me learn to follow. Woody (the best dancer there) was getting very strict with me: ‘Turn your head to the other shoulder’, ‘Look up; every time you look down I tread on your feet’, ‘I lead’, ‘Don’t think about what you’re doing; my body will tell you.’ I couldn’t believe the improvement in a couple of days. I did a few tangos (haven’t danced that socially for years) and a wonderful quickstep when very few people were around, really travelling across the floor. Once again we continued dancing until after midnight.

For those who are still trying to work out the ‘cast’ on board ship with me, here are Chris and Trevor dancing (in the centre) while the other two men are gentlemen hosts, the two still learning their roles.

The Ascot Ball

Wednesday 28^th November

My steward knocked on my door again at 10.40. Luckily I’d just woken up. When will he learn that I sleep in on sea days? Perhaps I need to put out the ‘Do not disturb’ notice.

I just had time for a small breakfast before going to the dance class to learn the quickstep. The steps are easy enough for me, with all my dancing background. What I find difficult is following! Too much of my dancing was spent learning a routine for exams, and dancing with a professional teacher. I don’t know how to follow. Woody (gentleman host) has said to me a couple of times: ‘I lead’. The problem is that in the class we are told to practise the routine and I follow that but he decides to do other steps because someone’s in the way. Oops! But I’m getting better. He has the strongest lead on the ship. I have to concentrate very hard to follow the others.

Trevor began his practice with Miyou. The ship will be holding a Strictly dancing competition at the end of the cruise. On Monday Trevor offered to partner me but I said I’d only do it if he couldn’t find anyone else. I don’t like competing and I have trouble remembering routines. I suggested Miyou (glamorous Japanese lady in the photo of several days back) and last night she agreed – and immediately wanted to discuss their game plan. How many hours a day will they practise? What tactics will they use? I think this will be quite serious – but Trevor will love it as he once thought of dancing competitively.

Because it’s the Ascot Ball tonight, Chris and I met up for the hat-making session. I only went along in order to repair my mask ready for the Masquerade Ball later in the voyage. Chris made a fascinator. It’s amazing what some people managed to make out of crepe paper strips, doilies, paper ribbon, sequins, staples and glue sticks!

I discovered at dinner tonight that if you don’t like the menu, you can get grilled salmon! That suited me just fine, though others revelled in lobster claws and chateaubriand.

This is such a difficult life: watching a show in the evening (pianist with comedy) and then dancing at the Ascot Ball. I’m afraid my formal skirt was too long in the waltz (Woody kept treading on it) and the ship was rocking mildly when I tried to rumba with Trevor. I don’t know how he kept his balance as I couldn’t keep mine. I decided on an earlier night. I was back in my room by about 11.30, though Peggy, Chris and Alan headed off to the disco.

Palma de Mallorca

Tuesday 27th November

Because it was a port day, I was awake by 8.30 and got up shortly afterwards. Unfortunately I was 10 minutes too late for breakfast in the restaurant and had to visit the Lido again.

From my window I could see Palma ... sunny Mallorca where so many Brits come for holidays ... island of the Winter sun. It was raining!

The ship provided a shuttle bus to the old area close to the Cathedral.



The Cathedral had been on my list of places to visit so it seemed a good place to start. I think I walked three sides of a square, in the rain, before finding the entrance.

In some cities the hawkers display handbags. On a day like this they sell umbrellas. They chose a good location – the steps leading to the Cathedral.

One of my interests in this Cathedral was that Gaudi had worked on the restoration. I had hoped to see some of his work. Unfortunately there was scaffolding up and I could not get into the nave, though I could see the lovely open space that was a result of him moving the choir.

I was impressed, and left thinking, by this more modernistic chapel, the work of a painter whose name I could not catch while eavesdropping on a guided group.

I wandered the narrow alleys of Mallorca. The rain and miserable weather made me want to return to the ship, but I continued in hopes of finding an internet cafe (which I finally did), and so I saw many picturesque alleys. Imagine living somewhere like this, just five minutes from the main shopping centre. Imagine what it must look like with the sun beating down – or better yet, the gentle warmth of the Autumn or Winter sun.

On my way home I found a rather decorated building, now partly converted to office space. I wasn’t sure that the decoration would completely inspire me to visit this dentist!

The shuttle bus took me back to the ship in time for a late lunch of fruit, ready for afternoon tea later.

The night was semi-formal, so I was back in black trousers and white silk jacket ready for dinner, sitting between Trevor and Malcolm. The night before, in our midnight conversation, Chris had startled Trevor with thoughts of a new career. (He started with an electronics degree, went into animation and is currently an anaesthetist.) Overnight he had begun to think seriously. We may have a dress designer on our hands. His uncles have contacts in the fabric and distribution sectors and Trevor has the talent and interest. We spent dinner trying to think of a name for his business and deciding which of us would head up which office. Do I want Paris, London or Milan? What fun. We have joked about meeting up in Milan in a few months to explore all the fashion shops.

The show that night was amazing – a comedy juggler. Then it was back to the ballroom to dance and chat the night away. The music ended at 12.15 but we stayed chatting with another woman from the ship until 1.00.

Unimagined levels of energy

Monday 26^th November

It’s not surprising that I slept until 10am, and stayed in bed even later. I am missing my scrambled egg breakfasts in the restaurant, but not missing them enough to give up the dancing! Instead I get to breakfast after 11 and just have fruit and perhaps a muffin.

Life on the ship can be busy! We had another dance class today – this time the rumba. Again I sat out with Peggy until we needed to learn the turn, and again I had the chance to practise that with the professional. When it came time to string the steps together, one of the gentlemen hosts asked me. I was amused when he said to me afterwards ‘You’re getting the hang of this now!’ I was too polite to tell him that actually I was dancing better than he was and my mistakes were because he was departing from the set routine and not leading me well enough for me to realise what he was doing!

I was not sure whether to be amused or insulted when one woman, talking to me afterwards, waffled on and said: ‘Oh, you know Trevor? I saw him dancing with you last night. He’s wonderful. I hear he’s going to get your daughter dancing by the end of the cruise.’ My daughter? She meant Chris. Chris is only a year younger than I am! I meant to take a photo of the two of us to let you decide that one for yourselves, but life is too busy onboard ship. I’ll do that another day.

I joined Chris and Peggy for lunch, along with a couple of other people they knew who had been watching the dancing. They went off to the music quiz (‘Name that Tune’) while I was sensible and returned to my room, supposedly to rest. I have to be sensible sometimes.

I am amazed at all I am managing to do on this cruise. I knew I’d had a breakthrough in energy a couple of months before the cruise, and had done even more in the weeks leading up to the cruise. However, I had not expected to be out dancing and to have no ill effects the following day! I’m used to crashing for a couple of days on a cruise, and having to stay on ship instead of visiting a port. I will have to learn my limits anew, but they are certainly more expansive than they have ever been.

At dinner tonight I sat between Barbara and Vince. I always feel that our waiter is kicking us out at about 7.30. It’s quite obvious – something I’ve never had on a cruise before. Peggy, Chris, Trevor and I went to the show, and were later joined by Alan. The four singers were spectacular. I really enjoyed it.

The evening’s entertainment in the Queen’s Room was Party Night. We went to have a look, starting off with a bit of musical chairs as we tried to find somewhere to sit, until Peggy remembered that she had promised to sit with friends and they had saved seats, so that became our fifth set of seats! I got up for one dance with one of the hosts (the educationalist I’d spoken to the night before), and Peggy danced too (on the right, in black sequinned top). Mother, take notice!

I wasn’t interested in all that bopping to loud music when I was a teenager, and I’m still not interested. I must be either too old or too young. Peggy, at age 85, stayed there, as did Pam who is older than I am, while Chris, Trevor and I went upstairs to the Commodore Club (with a cocktail pianist) and talked until 12.30.

Dancing the night away

Sunday 25^th November

I stayed in bed until after 10, just to make sure I’d have enough energy for more dancing today! I had not realised how much I missed dancing (well, dancing with a good partner) until I did some. I wonder if I can find some way to occasionally do some in shoreside life.

The ship’s dancing professionals were teaching the cha-cha. I went along to watch. I sat with Peggy while everyone learnt the basics, but then stood up to join in for the Allemagne turn. By then everyone else had found a partner so I was dancing alone – until the male professional came along and danced it with me! He also danced with me when we put all the steps together. It was great to have a rock-steady dancer to get me back upright whenever I lost my balance from the ship. For the final practice dance, Alan asked me if I could dance with him and lead him through the steps, calling out what to do. It reminded me of all my years helping out at basic ballroom dancing classes.

Lunch with Chris and Peggy was fun. I’ve been tasting all the chilled fruit soups on offer. On Friday I had peach soup; on Saturday I had blackberry soup; today it was pineapple and pina colada. Lovely!

After that, of course, was the boring task of resting! At least there was a purpose for the resting – so I’d be able to dance the night away.

I sat beside someone new at the table again – Malcolm (and his wife Barbara) on one side and Alan on the other. Another good time. The others went off to various activities like Trivia and the show, while I went back to my room for a rest. We were meeting up in the Queen’s Room for the Black and White Ball at 9.30, so I went at 9.00 to stake out seats for us. It was a bit of a fight to keep them, as more and more people came in!

It was a wonderful evening of dancing, and we kept going until after midnight. The ship has 4 gentlemen hosts who are there to dance with ladies over 50 who don’t have a partner. I danced with 3 of them, had several dances with Trevor (including trying to work out a Samba routine – not a dance I was ever good at) and one with Alan.

The professional dancers (who teach the midday classes and will give private lessons if you have the money) put on a display of the Viennese Waltz.

Some of the dancers on the cruise were superb. Peggy had a bet on with Alan, that he was to ask this lovely lady for a dance before the end of the cruise. His reward is to be a Guiness. I think the dance itself must have been reward enough. (Look at the tall gentleman and elegant Japanese lady in the middle.)

Trevor posed with me afterwards just so you could have a photo of me in dancing dress and up on the ballroom floor! Here’s proof.

While waiting for the lift I started chatting to one of the hosts, seeing he’d been introduced as having a Doctorate in education. I mentioned that I’d done my Master’s in that. We went up to the buffet for a cold drink and talked until 1.15! His work at the moment is in the field of testing and evaluation of programmes. By the time I’d got up to the Lido I’d discovered a broken blister on my right foot, so I walked back to my room barefoot!

Vigo

Saturday 23^rd November

I’ve been told it was stormy during the night ... I’ve been told the ship was on such an acute angle that some passengers felt the need to hang on to the sides of their beds for fear of falling out ... I’ve been told some people actually fell out of bed ... I´ve been told Chris´s TV fell off its shelf ... I´ve been told ... but I slept through it all until the steward knocked on the door at 9.45!

The port area of Vigo is very modern with some interesting statues – an early reminder that I’d left my camera on the ship. Luckily it was only a short walk back to collect it.

I collected a map from the port area and set off, looking for the Cathedral. This was not easy to find. Vigo is very hilly, which means that shorter buildings can obstruct ones’ view of the Cathedral. Eventually I found it. There were two men at the door with begging baskets ushering tourists in, taking no notice of the fact that a service was in progress. I walked in right in the middle of Consecrating the Host! (Later I walked past the Cathedral in time to see a change of shifts, with two women replacing one of the men. I wondered just how organised this is.) What I saw of the Cathedral in my brief visit appeared lovely – ornate but not gilded.

Vigo appears to be a mixture of the old (old streets, old houses, old shops), the new (renovations to old buildings, plus a completely new port area and modern shopping centre) and the transient (cruise ships bringing much-needed money to the area).

I wandered the narrow, hilly lanes of Vigo, marvelling at the cars that managed to drive along what looked like paths. On this dull, rainy day, Vigo gives very much an impression of grey, but there were occasional patches of green or trees with Autumn’s fruit still hanging.

 I was intrigued with this remnant of an old building, left standing in front of more modern blocks. It reminded me of science fiction stories where such a gateway would lead to another reality. I should have tested it out!

I am busy fighting off a cold, as well as some exhaustion from doing too much on Friday evening, so I didn’t stay off the ship for long. I took advantage of the free wifi in the port to upload my diary and catch up on emails.

Naturally I went to afternoon tea on the ship, especially as I had not had any lunch! I did not stay long as this time I was seated alone, and had not thought to take a book with me.

Dinner was another fun occasion with the group. We changed our seating so that we could talk to different people. I was somewhat restricted by the fact that one woman wore perfume so I could not sit next to her. Our waiter was a bit touchie-feelie, and tended to leave his arm draped over my shoulder. He did this to 85-year-old Peggy, who enjoyed it, but if he thinks he’ll get an extra tip out of me for invading my physical space, he is wrong! I will work out some way to discourage him.

After dinner Chris, Peggy and I found a quiet area in the ballroom so that I could begin to teach Chris how to rumba. Trevor joined us when he’d found his dancing shoes, and took over dancing with her. We had a lovely evening, with Trevor (very competent dancer) dancing with us. I managed quite a few cha-chas, doing steps I haven’t danced for nearly 30 years. He was very patient. However, the sway of the ship was too much for me to be able to keep my balance in a rumba or waltz. I’m afraid I don’t have the balance I used to have. I was sensible and left at about 10, when I could feel myself getting overtired. By then Pam had joined us but we didn’t meet up with the others of our group.

The Bay of Biscay

Friday 22^nd November

I finally gave up trying to sleep and got up earlier than ever before on a ship. In fact, I was waiting at the door of the restaurant ten minutes before they opened for breakfast! I am pleased to report that Queen Victoria still serves the best scrambled eggs at sea.

It was quite rough for most of the day, typical of the Bay of Biscay, though not enough for me to need any seasickness tablets. I’ve been through worse! I kept a low profile, reading in my room, meeting up with people from the Cruise Critic group (internet), etc. It was just a normal day at sea.

At dinner I found I was part of a table of ten, most of us single, ranging in age from about 55 to 85. They seem a good group. I was roped in to join a few of them for the trivia quiz followed by the show. Now that’s a first for me! I may have to readjust my days so that I have enough energy left in the evenings for a social life on this cruise!

By the time I’d put the clocks forward, ready for Vigo time, it was past midnight!

Sailing up the Solent, sipping champagne

Thursday 22^nd November

After 2 weeks of high energy and achieving more than usual, I woke this morning feeling sleepy, weary and unwell. Bummer!

I was slower getting ready than I had hoped, but eventually left shortly before 1pm. Traffic flowed well and procedures at the car park were relatively smooth (only a 15-minute wait) and I was fast-tracked through check-in at the cruise terminal (perhaps because I was by myself – as the couple who arrived at the same time was given Ticket G while I had Ticket A).

It was a relief to get onto the ship. I had just enough time for a late lunch (3.30) before our emergency drill. I was thrilled to find that my room had a corner balcony. I’ve read about them but never seen one. They are twice the size of a normal balcony and have a view to two sides, rather than just straight ahead. Because the ship sits inwards where the lifeboats are, the rooms between the levels have larger balconies. I will have to make sure I make full use of mine. I brought along my Welsh wool cape for sitting outside.

You can see from the following photograph where the corner balconies are on the ship, and the extra amount of space.

Unpacking took ages. I have never taken so many things before, but this is a 3-week cruise and I need clothes for Summer, Autumn and Winter. I used up all the hangers in the closets and needed 2 more besides!

The ship provides a bottle of champagne for embarkation, so this time I took full advantage of it. I actually drank 2 glasses – some of it sitting on the balcony, in the breeze (so difficult to open the balcony door!) watching the lights along the Solent. Because of the early darkness at this time of year, it looked great.

Normally I go to the restaurant for every evening meal, but this time I decided to take things easy and go to the buffet. A first for me. Another first was that I found UK television on the cruise, and watched a few programmes, such as Torchwood.

The champagne made me sleepy, and the sea was rough, so I planned an early night. Unfortunately the champagne also disturbed my sleep. I could not count the number of times I woke up!